Three things you need to take into consideration before heading out on a 63 nautical mile trip across Queen Charlotte Strait and around Cape Caution; the swell, the currents, and the wind.
It paid off to wait. We hit ideal conditions: 0.5 meter swell, currents in our favor pushing us 2 knots at times, and little wind, 5 knots, during a non stop 9 hour crossing.
We anchor in Fury Cove after a long day of transiting. Did we take the right turn? The shell beach and cove spread in front of us are breath taking. If you close your eyes and forget you just crossed Vancouver Island to the Mainland, you could swear you were in Hawaii or some beach in the BVI’s.
From here we explore Rivers Inlet, its many bays and coves. I’m amused by the names of the places. They are so unique and describe the area well, Fry Pan Bay, Fish Egg Inlet, Planet Group, Dawson Landing. The Ma and Pa Marina at Dawson Landing is a one stop shopping; fuel, water and beer – all the liquids you need! Their general store is well stocked too from boots to beans.
Pruth Bay is a popular spot. It is also home of the Hakai Beach Institute. This is a research, teaching and leadership center serving the BC Central Coast. They pursue long term Ecological Research year-round looking at many factors and how they change over time. Particularly the coast region margin, where the Pacific Ocean meets the temperate rainforest, the channels, inlets, estuaries and watersheds.
I thought Fury Cove was spectacular but my jaw dropped when I saw the West Beach and then the North Beach. OMG! It is uniform, pristine soft sand that squeaks when you walk, covered in driftwood, and reaching out to the aqua blue/green water. There are actually 10 beaches that you can roam around, each different but same. It reminds me of the beaches on the Côte d’Azur. Did we take the right turn?
I just finished reading “The Inconvenient Indian” by Thomas King. He mentions the following:
“ For non-Natives, land is primarily a commodity, something that has value for what you can take from it or what you can get for it”.
This struck me because as soon as we reached the Central Coast, we were immediately struck by the beauty and peacefulness of the land. Looking past the clear-cut slopes, I realize this land has much more than economic value. In the next several weeks, I will look at this and more in a different light and enjoy just “being” in these surroundings.